Preserving a treasured family recipe since 1978, Ayam Betutu Men Tempeh has become one of Gilimanuk’s iconic culinary destinations, maintaining the authentic flavors of Bali from one generation to the next.

A Legacy of Authentic Balinese Flavors

In the past, at the old Gilimanuk terminal, passengers stepping off the ferry were often greeted by an irresistible aroma. The enticing scent of ayam betutu, a traditional Balinese chicken dish slow-cooked with rich, aromatic spices, wafted from the rows of small eateries in the area. One of the busiest establishments, which continues to thrive to this day, is Men Tempeh.

Since 1978, the kitchen at Men Tempeh has never stopped preparing ayam betutu, a dish long sought after by travelers crossing between Java and Bali. Nearly half a century later, the recipe has remained virtually unchanged, passed down from one generation to the next.

Ni Wayan Rarud, the original owner of the restaurant, earned the nickname Men Tempeh (Mrs. Tampah) from bus drivers who were among her regular customers. In Balinese, men means mother or woman, while tempeh refers to a traditional rice-winnowing tray whose shape resembles Ni Wayan Rarud’s round face. The nickname gradually became widely recognized and eventually grew into the well-known name the restaurant carries today. The business is now managed by the second generation, Putu Okta Damayanti, her daughter-in-law, who continues to preserve her mother-in-law’s original recipe.

The distinctive flavor of Men Tempeh’s ayam betutu comes from its carefully staged cooking process. Young free-range chicken is seasoned with Balinese spices, partially boiled, and then left to rest briefly to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat. The chicken is subsequently cooked until tender. Diners can choose their preferred level of spiciness, as well as opt for boiled or fried ayam betutu. On a typical day, the restaurant can serve between 30 and 50 portions.

Curious to experience the authentic taste of ayam betutu? Let’s take a look at the recipe below!

Anggi

Men Tempeh’s Ayam Betutu Recipe

Main Ingredients

• 1 young free-range chicken (600–700 g)

• 500 ml water

• 2 tbsp cooking oil

• 1 tsp salt

Balinese Spice Paste

• 5 shallots, 5 garlic cloves, and 3 candlenuts

• 2 cm ginger, 3 cm galangal, 2 cm aromatic ginger (kencur), and 3 cm turmeric

• 1 stalk lemongrass, bruised

• ½ tsp coriander, ½ tsp white pepper, and ½ tsp black pepper

• ½ nutmeg, ½ tsp shrimp paste, and 1 Indonesian bay leaf

• ½ tsp salt and 1 tsp palm sugar

Chili Ingredients

• 15 red chilies

• 15 bird’s eye chilies

Instructions

1. Clean the chicken and rub salt evenly over the entire surface and inside the cavity. Let it rest for 15 minutes to allow the initial seasoning to penetrate.

2. Grind the Balinese spice ingredients into a paste, excluding the lemongrass and Indonesian bay leaf. Grind the chilies separately.

3. Sauté the spice paste and ground chilies until fragrant. Add the lemongrass, Indonesian bay leaf, salt, and palm sugar.

4. Coat the chicken evenly with the seasoning mixture. Place the remaining spice paste inside the cavity to ensure the flavors penetrate thoroughly.

5. Boil the chicken with the remaining seasoning and water until partially cooked.

6. Turn off the heat briefly and let the residual heat and spices continue to work their way into the meat.

7. Turn the heat back on and continue cooking until the chicken is tender, for a total cooking time of approximately one hour.

8. Remove from the heat and serve warm with the flavorful broth and deeply infused spices.